May all your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view......where something strange and more beautiful and more full of wonder than your deepest dreams waits for you.

May 29, 2010

Trying to stay positive!

Well I'm on day 10 in Kenya and things are going okay. Little frustrations do not seem as big of a deal when you are laughing at yourself. I am quite over the whole being dirty and smelly thing, as everyone else is just as dirty and smelly. There is an abundance of fresh fruit available and it is cheap so even though I am sick of beans I have plenty to eat. Morgan, one of the other volunteers, and I have decided to try to name out positive things because there tends to be a lot of complaining by all of us volunteers, about everything from the living situation to the administration here.

Today was sponsors day at the orphanage, and so all the children in the surrounding area that are sponsored by donors in other countries through WWB come to pick up their supplies...schoolbooks, toothpaste, soap, pencils, some clothes (the clothes that were donated by Kristin from TKO were handed out!) and corn and beans. Of course they did not have enough toothpaste and the orphanage is very nonchalant about this - they were just like, well they'll get it sometime...so me and another volunteer went and bought toothpaste because we did not think that was fair. On one hand I understand that this place has limited resources, that this is a different world, and that its normal to less efficient or less fair than what I think is ideal, but it is so simple to organize something like this better...the volunteers have ideas but its hard to implement because it seems like they don't have the desire to change their system.

Either way, it was interesting to see the children and see them get their supplies. Saturdays are usually a day off for volunteers but it rained yesterday so I did not do much, and ended up helping today.

Thursday I signed up for social work...we spent like over an hour sweeping dirt....from dirt? Yes, that is correct, they think its cleaner to sweep the dirt paths of the compound so we did that. And picked up leaves...from the grass...under a tree. But who am I to question - I mean we do really strange things in America too. One of the other volunteers, Blake, was trying to explain walking in America, saying that we do not really walk unless it is for exercise. So we wake up in the  morning, walk around the block (walk in circles) or walk in place (like on a treadmill) and then get in cars and drive to work. Sounds really stupid. I also tried to explain that we buy pre-made food, frozen, and then thaw it before eating it, which they thought was gross.

These differences are funny, because things that seem so so normal sound so odd to people that have never heard of them. The amount of work that people here do is incredible. Washing clothes takes all day. That's something we can do in about 90 minutes and we can do other things while the laundry is done.

Another thing I have noticed, not about the orphanage, but about the culture here, people sometimes just make things up! If they do not know the answer, they will answer regardless and just lie to you. The weather, the time, how far we have to walk, where is the modem, when will new volunteers be here, etc...lies lies lies. Once you see it and recognize it, its funny, but it can be frustrating.

So as you can see, there is a lot of good things going on but many frustrations, not with being here so much as adjusting to the differences in culture here. I am experiencing a lot of homesickness, missing people more than material or physical comforts...everyone said I would be too busy and having too much fun to be homesick, which is wrong. I would not say this trip is "fun" in a traditional sense but I am enjoying myself and learning a lot. I also not busy really, there is a lot of downtime.

That's all for now...thank you for reading!

May 26, 2010

Back in town again!

We came back to use the internet again today and I wanted to quickly go over my daily routine because I haven't really covered that.

Around 7:30, we walk the primary school children to school (there are 7 of them). Afterwards we stop and have chai and mandazi for breakfast, its wonderful. Then we come back and begin our work. Our options are: Field Work (as I described yesterday), Clinic (I haven't done this yet but its mostly just HIV counseling, sometimes shadowing doctors), Construction (can be building things, I did this today and painted signs), Laundry, Kitchen Assistant (sorting beans, cutting vegetables, etc.), Social Work (cleaning, sweeping, etc.) or Teaching Assistant.

Lunch is served around 1pm and is usually beans or rice or some combination of that. Then we either continue our work or if we are done, we can hang out, read, help someone else, or come into town (as I have done today and yesterday). Its very relaxing but the excessive down time makes the days move so slow. However yesterday and today I have been in a really good mood - I think it is because I am able to get online. Yesterday when I was in Kenol, where I am now, I got oranges, carrots, some popcorn, some Coke Light (AKA Diet Coke....oh I missed you) and some peanut butter for my bread in the mornings. I made orange juice with my oranges which was awesome.

In the evenings, the sun sets around 6:30ish. The kids come home from school between 4 and 5:30, and we hang out with them until 6:30 when they go to class at the orphanage or do homework. At 8pm, they wash their hands and say prayers (I need to get a video of this, it might be the cutest thing I have ever seen) and the volunteers serve dinner. Then we eat, brush teeth, say evening prayers and hear a Bible verse, and the kids go to bed. All in all, we are back in bed by 9:30pm each night, so I usually read or write in my journal for a while.

I don't really remember what all I have written in here already about this but I thought I'd go over it anyway.

This weekend I am going to be going to Nairobi to go to Children's Garden, another orphanage that my roommate Stella worked at for a while. She says it is far more efficient and better run, so I am excited to check it out.

Short post today as I updated yesterday, but thank you for reading!

May 25, 2010

The "magic" of Africa

"Physical discomfort is only important when the mood is wrong. Then you fasten onto whatever is uncomfortable and call that the cause." - from Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

That is just something I try to keep in mind as I use the pit toilet and eat beans for every meal and get pooped on by babies with no option of a shower!

I have been adjusting much better to being here, but trying to take it day by day, as the idea of 10 more weeks is a bit scary. But the children here really help you get through that. They are so sweet and so loving. The thing is, they do not easily attach themselves to volunteers because they know we are just temporary - but at the same time, they are so very willing to let us into their lives and love us and let us love them and I am having a hard time not getting attached myself.

Yesterday we did "field work" which basically means I follow around Eric and Martha to the homes of different kids in the area that WWB sponsors - the kids who stay with grandparents and aunts. We walked around 10-12km...under the hot African sun, and of course the families offer us hot chai when we arrive. While none of these people spoke English (and thus our presence was in practice useless) it was fascinating to walk around and see the towns and the insides of peoples homes. The homes are essentially wooden frames with some sort of cement on them, and one room with an outside hut for cooking. This was really rural, really "backward" if I may use such a negative term, and it was shocking. I mean, this is what they mean when they say rural poverty. And its hard to see how the kids here have a chance to pull out of this because it was evident that most people here did not know anything more than this lifestyle. The people in these areas were gaping at us (I think that it really is that rare for whites to come to this area). While field work was interesting, it was exhausting - walking that long without stopping for lunch (we left at 9AM and returned at 3pm) in the sun was very tiring. But it was really fascinating to see the area around the orphanage.

It was also cool talking to Eric as he studied development himself. He echoed my sentiments of better governance and LOCAL governance to help Kenya. He seems to think that with my ONE year of grad school experience and my trip to Kenya (for a whole 5 days so far) that I am equipped to make good recommendations for Kenya to become "like America." There is an assumption here if you are white or American that you are smarter and more experienced...but I am here to learn, not to teach. So I shared my thoughts but told Eric that I did not know enough to really make a strong statement.

We also went to a school in the area which was built in part by World Vision, and in fact I see a LOT of signs for World Vision here - its good to see that where money goes to actually help the community, because a lot of times you do not know where your money is going. It is evident World Vision is a respected organization here.

The days move so slow here, because there is so much down time and we are never really busy. SO much of the work outside of the orphanage really consists of us shadowing other people (doctors, social workers, etc.) and it makes one feel useless. Today is NOT the day to go into some of the frustrations with the orphanage management and the work I am doing here, so I will simply say that it feels as though I have been here weeks. The other volunteers have similar sentiments, but we are trying to be patient. Time moves differently here than at home. I have begun planning trips to Nairobi (July 12, to watch the World Cup), to Mombasa/Kenya Coast/Zanzibar (end of June) and to Uganda and I am hoping this will help cut the time here. My roommate returned from her trip to the coast and Zanzibar and is raving about it, so I am really looking forward to going.

I have SO MUCH to say but so little time to say it (we have to leave before it gets dark) so I am trying to fit it all in here. Before I wrap up though, let me say: Thank you for the many comments, it is nice to know you are all thinking of me, I am thinking of you all too! Also: I cannot receive packages because of the corrupt mail system here, stuff is rifled with and then they charge ridiculous "fees".

The kids are wonderful. There are few I am starting to remember now - it is difficult because they all look the same. The only way to tell the girls from the boys is that they usually wear skirts! But even then, the young ones look the same. Still, they are just beautiful children and they have such happy hearts and are so open to us. Saturday night, they started dancing and singing after evening prayers - some traditional music, they kids just sort of yell at the top of their lungs and jump up and down...they love to hold hands so I held the hands of three of them and just ran in circles forever.

The magic and mystery and beauty of Africa is something you cannot put your finger on. I always thought it was the mystery of the jungle and the exotic animals, the far away places, the river in Conrad's Heart of Darkness and the safaris and the whole natural aspect of it. But that is missing in rural Kenya. The place is not really "beautiful" - it reminds me of rural Muskoka, lots of shrubs and grasses, only hotter with red dirt. There are annoying bugs and goats, not zebras or elephants. There is a lot of discomfort - not magic. But I am finding that the magic is not in the natural elements but in the human elements. I am finding that children are the same no matter what culture, no matter where you go. They are void of hate, they have big loving hearts, they laugh and play and sing and it does not matter what language you speak. The babies will laugh when you tickle them if you are black or white, if you are Catholic or Christian or Muslim or whatever, they will love you and hug you NO MATTER WHAT, because they are just babies. Children remind us that we are all, deep down, human beings, and we share similar qualities before our societies and cultures inundate us with prejudices and hate and anger. And that is what is magic - about Africa but also about everywhere in the world. It is wonderful and enlightening to see this.

That is all I really have time for today. Thank you again for reading!

May 21, 2010

culture shock is an understatement

Words can't describe how different life is in Kenya compared to at home. To call it culture shock doesn't come close to the way I feel right now!

Kenya is everything I thought it would be and at the same time, totally different than I expected. I am sitting right now in Kenol, a small town around 20 minutes from Makuyu. The orphanage is located, not in Makuyu, but in the nearby village of Pundamilia, about 15-20 minutes walking distance. So we walk to Makuyu and take a matatu (a public taxi, fits 15 but they usually squeeze like 20+ in there) to Kenol, or if we choose, on Thika, which is more like 45 minutes away.

Why am I here? Well there is no internet at the orphanage. So blogging will occur whenever I find the time/desire to get here or to Thika.

So why the shock? Well I arrived in Nairobi on Wednesday night, stayed the night in a simple but nice hotel, and then went with Geoffrey and his wife Edith to the orphanage. It is really in the middle of nowhere. There are little shops and "hotels" and "restaurants" along the roads but they are seriously made of crumbling concrete and the roads are dirt. There are children and people running around every where and every which way...its exactly how they talk about it in books and how it looks in pictures, just chaos and messy.

The orphanage is calmer. We arrive, and they take me on a tour of the grounds. Its 2.5 acres and they show me around - the place is almost totally self-sustaining. They pump water from a well, and collect rainwater. They use the cow poop to create biogas to light fires, and they grow all the fruit and vegetables that they use. They have rabbits, chickens, pigs and cows - but they don't really eat any of these so I don't know what their purpose is. Maybe to sell for money later.

When I arrived, the kids were at school and the other volunteers were doing other work. The whole thing was totally overwhelming - I was absolutely terrified - I could not imagine doing this for 3 months. The toilet is a hole in the ground. There was no internet. There were bugs everywhere. The freaking cows would not shut up. The rooms were concrete walls with a corrugated steel roof, bugs and wasps flying in and out, and the stupid pigs were right outside.

Everything and everyone seemed so far away. Maybe it was the lack of sleep but I panicked. I went to my room and lay down around 11am, and slept until like 4:30pm, hoping maybe I could sleep through the whole summer. Around 4:30 or 5pm, I crept out of my room and started to walk around. By this time, the kids were home from school.

The second I step outside, one of the kids, Baby Joyce, comes up to me to say hello. They are all so polite, Hello, how are you? And they ask your name, and shake your hand. Joyce held my hand and walked me around to introduce me to the other kids. There are 32 orphans at WWB. They primarily speak Kikuyu, a local language, not Swahili. They also speak a little English. They are just precious. So friendly and so sweet. They just jump all over you and climb on your arms and its so cute. Impossible not to smile when you are with them.

After this, I met some more volunteers and they helped me calm down a lot. They all seemed to have the same misgivings and same issues that I did at first, and were dealing with it, and it was nice to have someone to commiserate with.

At dinner, we serve the kids and then sit down to eat - a sort of potato and pumpkin and bean soup. It was fine, just pretty boring. They use no salt or seasoning here! After dinner, the kids brush their teeth and listen to a Bible verse in English and Kikuyu. Then they hold hands and say the Lords Prayer and go to sleep. They also sing this really cute song - imagine to the tune of Frere Jacques:


Baby Jesus
Baby Jesus
I love you
I love you
You are my savior
You are my savior
Every day
Every day

Its interesting - it seems like Kenyans are extremely conservative and very religious. Everywhere you look there are signs that say God is Good, and the Lord Loves You and stuff like that. On the other hand, they seem to take a fatalist viewpoint of religion - if they are good, they will prosper, if they are sinful, God will punish them, etc. I mean, I've only been here two days but that is what I picked up.


Okay this post is getting long so I'll try to wrap it up. After dinner, everyone just goes to sleep because it gets dark pretty early and there really isn't much else to do. We get up at 7:30 and take the kids to school. Then on the walk home we stop to get chai (just black tea with lots of milk and sugar...I hate tea but this is very good) and andazi (like a fried dough thing?). When we return, the volunteers each go to their various tasks. For my first day, I chose to stick around the orphanage and do laundry. Imagine doing laundry for 32 kids....by hand. The lady who does the laundry must have the worst back ache ever...I helped her but I couldn't do that every day!

Laundry was done by 12:30, so I washed up and ate lunch - white rice and beans. Thank God for the hot sauce. Then I "showered" - basically, I washed my hair out of a bucket and tried to wipe off my feet and legs. I will never feel clean again. The red dirt touches everything and you can't get it off of your skin.

As much as I am trying to adjust here, it is comforting to see the children because they remind me of how blessed I am. Yet it is not sad to see them because these children are very lucky - they have beds with clean sheets and clean clothes, they have shoes, they get to go to school, they get 3 meals per day, they have basic health services, they have adults caring for them, they actually have a chance in the world. They are wealthy by the standards of Pundamilia and Makuyu. This is all because of Geoffrey and WWB.

I will hopefully be able to update again soon...within the next week perhaps? The internet at this place is 1ksh/minute which is like...really cheap (its like 70ksh/dollar). And its fast enough to upload pictures so I will try soon.

I'll end with this...I am overwhelmed and scared of spending 3 months in this place. It is like camping for 3 months, and I hate camping. But at the same time, it is exciting and I find myself happy when I am with the kids. They are just like any children anywhere, and I find that comforting.

Thanks for reading!

MAIL ME:
Attn: Emily Tanner
Watoto Wa Baraka International
P.O. Box 75306-00200

Nairobi, Kenya

May 18, 2010

Leaving today!

....and what I am feeling is both fear and excitement.

I am so excited and so ready to get there. After months of preparation, its finally time and I am ready to dive into this experience and work hard and play hard and really get my hands dirty. I'm so excited to meet the kids and learn about their lives and their culture and their world. This is their life. I get a glimpse of it, a short and fleeting look, and 11 weeks is a short time to do that. So I'm excited to absorb it as much as possible.

I feel a little fearful too, though - but not for all the reasons you might suspect. I'm not so scared of the physical discomforts or the food or the safety things...I'm moreso scared of all the changes that are about to begin in my life. I am going into this knowing that a lot of things in my life will be different when I return. This trip will help me discover whether I want to be in this field, and will play a big role determining if I return to my graduate program. That frightens me, as I do not know where I would go or what I would do if I choose not to go back to Pitt. I know that I will be different when I come home, in that I will have new stories and new experiences and hopefully some new perspective on life. Other things will be different too - many of my closest friends are moving away and moving on with their lives, and when I return much of my old life will be scattered around, and it saddens me to know that I can't return to the comfort of having them all there with me. But I know that amidst this change there are certainly some constants...my family, and my friends, are still there in spirit and mostly just a short ride away, and that is all that matters. I know I will be coming home in just eleven weeks, which may feel like an eternity now, but I have a feeling that by August 4, I will be dreading the trip home.

Next time I write, I will (hopefully, providing no traveling issues) be writing from Kenya!

Grateful and blessed to have everyone's support and prayers. I love you all!

May 16, 2010

Two days and counting...

Hello everyone! This is my travel blog for my trip to Kenya. I leave May 18 to travel to Makuyu, Kenya to work at Watoto Wa Baraka Orphanage (WWB). I am really excited to begin this trip!

What am I doing in Kenya? Well, first I will be working at the orphanage and the centre with children who have lost their parents (often to HIV/AIDS). This involves work like housekeeping, cooking, cleaning, playing games, and general child care. The orphanage says that there are many projects to get involved in - for example, they recently built a well and new outhouses. I am not sure WHAT exactly I will be doing, but that is part of the fun of the trip. I am going into this with an open heart and open mind, ready to serve and ready to work.


In addition to this work, in order to benefit my studies, I will be observing the property rights systems in the villages where I am staying. I want to find out what property institutions exist in these areas and how they operate. Why does this matter? Click here to find out. 

I was able to fundraise for this trip through generous contributions by my family and friends, as well as my graduate program, and personal funds. If you are interested in contributing to my travel funds, please let me know! Any contributions are appreciated.

I wanted this first post to sort of cover a lot of the questions I have been getting...everyone is asking the same things so here you go:

  • Is there electricity? Yes, at WWB, but very basic. I don't know what this  means. 
  • Is there internet? I will have access at internet cafes and at the orphanage but I am not sure how often or how fast this will be.
  • Is there running water? There is a well with clean water. But no, no showers or sinks! 
  • Where are you staying? At WWB, volunteers stay in the nearby village of Pundamilia. The closest town is Thika, and it takes an hour to get to the bus and take the bus there. Volunteers tell me that I can get just about ANYTHING in Thika.
  • Why don't you know anything about where you're going?! Thats just how things go in Kenya and in a lot of Africa...a bit chaotic, a bit disorganized, not sure what to expect. So again, I'm going with an open mind.
  • Is it safe? I will be in a pretty rural area in Makuyu/Pundamilia, so its pretty safe. Nairobi is a bit more dangerous but if you pay attention and don't act stupid you'll be fine. I won't be in Nairobi except when I land.
  • What is the food like? The main staples of the diet are rice, beans, ugali (corn meal), potatoes, cabbage and bread (chapati). Fresh fruit and vegetables are readily available and are inexpensive to purchase. Everyone I talk to says that food is pretty bland and boring! So I've got hot sauce and of course Cleveland Stadium Mustard. Could not leave home without it. 
  • What are you taking? Lots of clothes for the kids. A sleeping bag, a towel, tylenol, some t-shirts, some jeans, and lots of hot sauce. I'm anticipating leaving most of my clothes there to make room for souvenirs.
  • Whats the weather like? Hot, and relatively dry. Its winter there, but Kenya is on the equator and it will be warm, but cool at night.
  • How long are you going? May 18 to August 5
  • Is this mission work? No. I am going on this trip for school. However, the orphanage has affiliations with the church.
  • Do you know anyone there? Not exactly. I have chatted with a volunteer that is there now, named Morgan. I have two friends, Ashley and Rachael, who will be in Uganda and we plan to meet up. A girl I went to college with, Deanna, is in Meru, Kenya right now, and that's close enough I needed something. But for the most part, I'm going alone. 
  • Um....you aren't exactly the outdoorsy type...or the type that likes to endure physical discomfort...plus you like to be clean. Why are you doing this? I'm doing this because I want to gain better understanding of poverty. I'm doing this because I want to figure out if this is the field in which I want to work. I'm doing this because I want to figure out if there is anything we can really do to make the world better. I'm doing this because I feel drawn to Africa...I feel drawn to help, to understand, to serve. I don't really know why I am doing this. I'm going to try and figure that out when I'm there. 
So follow along with me this summer. I'm blessed to be able to go. I am also blessed to have such amazing friends and family that have so graciously donated to this cause and enabled me to travel. 

A final thank you to all the wonderful people who have donated to this trip. I could NOT have done it without you!

Richard & Gail Tanner
Matthew Tanner
Bill & Ruth Koptis
Hans & Helen Tanner
Monica Tanner
Mark & Sarah Van Drunen
Mike & Barb Radis
Joyce Schindler
Cynthia Schwelgian 
Marylee Koptis
Kristen Buchstein
Ann Seward
Rachel Ball
Terry & Susan Walker
Jillian Nichols
Becky Horvath
GSPIA Dean's Office - Travel Grant
GSPIA Student Cabinet - Travel Grant