May all your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view......where something strange and more beautiful and more full of wonder than your deepest dreams waits for you.

May 21, 2010

culture shock is an understatement

Words can't describe how different life is in Kenya compared to at home. To call it culture shock doesn't come close to the way I feel right now!

Kenya is everything I thought it would be and at the same time, totally different than I expected. I am sitting right now in Kenol, a small town around 20 minutes from Makuyu. The orphanage is located, not in Makuyu, but in the nearby village of Pundamilia, about 15-20 minutes walking distance. So we walk to Makuyu and take a matatu (a public taxi, fits 15 but they usually squeeze like 20+ in there) to Kenol, or if we choose, on Thika, which is more like 45 minutes away.

Why am I here? Well there is no internet at the orphanage. So blogging will occur whenever I find the time/desire to get here or to Thika.

So why the shock? Well I arrived in Nairobi on Wednesday night, stayed the night in a simple but nice hotel, and then went with Geoffrey and his wife Edith to the orphanage. It is really in the middle of nowhere. There are little shops and "hotels" and "restaurants" along the roads but they are seriously made of crumbling concrete and the roads are dirt. There are children and people running around every where and every which way...its exactly how they talk about it in books and how it looks in pictures, just chaos and messy.

The orphanage is calmer. We arrive, and they take me on a tour of the grounds. Its 2.5 acres and they show me around - the place is almost totally self-sustaining. They pump water from a well, and collect rainwater. They use the cow poop to create biogas to light fires, and they grow all the fruit and vegetables that they use. They have rabbits, chickens, pigs and cows - but they don't really eat any of these so I don't know what their purpose is. Maybe to sell for money later.

When I arrived, the kids were at school and the other volunteers were doing other work. The whole thing was totally overwhelming - I was absolutely terrified - I could not imagine doing this for 3 months. The toilet is a hole in the ground. There was no internet. There were bugs everywhere. The freaking cows would not shut up. The rooms were concrete walls with a corrugated steel roof, bugs and wasps flying in and out, and the stupid pigs were right outside.

Everything and everyone seemed so far away. Maybe it was the lack of sleep but I panicked. I went to my room and lay down around 11am, and slept until like 4:30pm, hoping maybe I could sleep through the whole summer. Around 4:30 or 5pm, I crept out of my room and started to walk around. By this time, the kids were home from school.

The second I step outside, one of the kids, Baby Joyce, comes up to me to say hello. They are all so polite, Hello, how are you? And they ask your name, and shake your hand. Joyce held my hand and walked me around to introduce me to the other kids. There are 32 orphans at WWB. They primarily speak Kikuyu, a local language, not Swahili. They also speak a little English. They are just precious. So friendly and so sweet. They just jump all over you and climb on your arms and its so cute. Impossible not to smile when you are with them.

After this, I met some more volunteers and they helped me calm down a lot. They all seemed to have the same misgivings and same issues that I did at first, and were dealing with it, and it was nice to have someone to commiserate with.

At dinner, we serve the kids and then sit down to eat - a sort of potato and pumpkin and bean soup. It was fine, just pretty boring. They use no salt or seasoning here! After dinner, the kids brush their teeth and listen to a Bible verse in English and Kikuyu. Then they hold hands and say the Lords Prayer and go to sleep. They also sing this really cute song - imagine to the tune of Frere Jacques:


Baby Jesus
Baby Jesus
I love you
I love you
You are my savior
You are my savior
Every day
Every day

Its interesting - it seems like Kenyans are extremely conservative and very religious. Everywhere you look there are signs that say God is Good, and the Lord Loves You and stuff like that. On the other hand, they seem to take a fatalist viewpoint of religion - if they are good, they will prosper, if they are sinful, God will punish them, etc. I mean, I've only been here two days but that is what I picked up.


Okay this post is getting long so I'll try to wrap it up. After dinner, everyone just goes to sleep because it gets dark pretty early and there really isn't much else to do. We get up at 7:30 and take the kids to school. Then on the walk home we stop to get chai (just black tea with lots of milk and sugar...I hate tea but this is very good) and andazi (like a fried dough thing?). When we return, the volunteers each go to their various tasks. For my first day, I chose to stick around the orphanage and do laundry. Imagine doing laundry for 32 kids....by hand. The lady who does the laundry must have the worst back ache ever...I helped her but I couldn't do that every day!

Laundry was done by 12:30, so I washed up and ate lunch - white rice and beans. Thank God for the hot sauce. Then I "showered" - basically, I washed my hair out of a bucket and tried to wipe off my feet and legs. I will never feel clean again. The red dirt touches everything and you can't get it off of your skin.

As much as I am trying to adjust here, it is comforting to see the children because they remind me of how blessed I am. Yet it is not sad to see them because these children are very lucky - they have beds with clean sheets and clean clothes, they have shoes, they get to go to school, they get 3 meals per day, they have basic health services, they have adults caring for them, they actually have a chance in the world. They are wealthy by the standards of Pundamilia and Makuyu. This is all because of Geoffrey and WWB.

I will hopefully be able to update again soon...within the next week perhaps? The internet at this place is 1ksh/minute which is like...really cheap (its like 70ksh/dollar). And its fast enough to upload pictures so I will try soon.

I'll end with this...I am overwhelmed and scared of spending 3 months in this place. It is like camping for 3 months, and I hate camping. But at the same time, it is exciting and I find myself happy when I am with the kids. They are just like any children anywhere, and I find that comforting.

Thanks for reading!

MAIL ME:
Attn: Emily Tanner
Watoto Wa Baraka International
P.O. Box 75306-00200

Nairobi, Kenya

13 comments:

  1. Like you just said on the phone, live one moment at a time. Don't think about 3 months or even 3 days or 3 hours! You will adjust. Stick with the kids and Morgan (volunteer) as you assimilate.

    Love,
    Mom

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  2. dearest girl, i have read your blog and want you to know you are on my heart and in my prayers. you need strength today more than comfort. i am so grateful the other volunteers understand and can support your emotional upheaval.
    remember you are doing a great thing. god bless your giving heart. from bop and i, nan

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  3. Hi Emily, I just saw your blog posted on facebook and decided to come over and read it. I just wanted to tell you I went to Mexico for 4 months a few years ago, and I had the same exact feeling when I got there- a sort of anxiety attack about everything. That night I was like oh my god what am I doing here I need to go home this is insane. And I thought that a lot, every time I had to do something out of my comfort zone. But I will tell you that 4 months later, I did not want to leave and to this day I think about all the people I met there and the culture I fell in love with. I actually wish now that I did not spend so much time being in "shock" because I feel like I wasted precious time. So like your mom said in her post, get through it by living in the moment. Love everything you do there because you have a wonderful opportunity and August will come too soon. Oh and one thing that got me through the beginning was the 7 year old and 9 year old living with me, kids just seem to have a way to make you feel better, and it seems like you will have your fair share of them around you :) Take care !

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  8. Emily,
    I am proud of you and know that you will do fine once you get a litle rest and get to know a few of the people.

    I will write more later.

    Love Dad

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  9. Emily,

    We are so glad that you arrived safe and sound. It is very impressive to read you blog. This really is a step outside your comfort zone, and we are very proud of you. We are looking forward to keeping up with your adventure! Learn lots!

    Love You!!!

    Gramma and Grampa

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  10. Miss Emily, After reading of your first days, I can really relate to your feelings of "shock".When I first went to India with Roy, I couldn`t believe my eyes. ears and nose. Sometimes the water coming out of the spigot in the hotel was redder than my legs and feet, so I just didn`t shower that day. We are enjoying your sharing and please know, we are praying for you. Love ya, Joan

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  11. Hi Em,
    Just wanted to let you know that I'm reading and enjoying your blog. If you need anything while you're over there let me know. I'll send you a care package. Have you heard of dry shampoo? if you didnt take any and want some I'll totaly send it to you. Have fun. Focus on the good when you start to get super overwhelmed and enjoy the moments. Love you

    lauren t

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  12. hello on sunday afternoon here in ohio. 3:00pm you are probably tucked in for the night.
    are we able to send you packages? such as anything you need?? want??
    praying everyday is better for you.

    we love you..yes [more]
    bop and nan

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  13. Tanner,
    I am so proud of you and I will be keeping you in my prayers. What you are doing is making a difference in this world!
    ~Hacker

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